As I said in a previous post, Uncle Bex and I went to Ukraine for a little over two weeks. Despite all the recent press that they have been getting about wars and fighting and shooting down passenger airlines in that country, for us it was a very enjoyable, calm, and safe experience. However, we maybe saw a side of Ukraine that not many tourists get to see. And we steered clear of the oblasts Donetsk and Luhansk where most of the fighting is happening.
I started to write about the Ukraine experience all in one post, but then I realized I was either going to have to cut out a lot of details, or else I was going to have to do this in installments to do things justice. I chose installments, for better or worse. It depends on if you like the reading as much as I like the telling.
It's hard to know where to start and how to tell about this vacation. Last fall Bex had been invited to go there by her friend Kay, and then Bex asked me if I wanted to tag along. Since my friend Charlie lives in Ukraine and I'm usually up for a travel adventure, I said, "Sure." We booked our plane tickets in January, right before the trouble, rioting, and fighting started in earnest. After the fighting started, we decided to wait and see what would happen by June/July. I kept in touch with Charlie occasionally, and it seemed like the trip would probably still be possible. So we trusted the advice of our friends living there, and we trusted in someone even greater and decided to go.
I wasn't feeling nervous about the trip at all until about a week before we left when people at work started very earnestly wishing me safe travels, etc. Then I started to get a bit nervous because they seemed so concerned. Both Bex and I weren't really sure what we were feeling as we headed to the airport in Chicago, but we were committed, so we pressed on. And once we landed and got to our hotel in Kiev, pretty much all the nerves were gone (for me anyway - not sure about Bex). It was shaping up to be some good days.
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| Flat MelBMarvis poked her head out of the luggage during our layover in Zurich on the way there. |
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| It wasn't going to be a good trip only because this was in the vending machine in Zurich. ;-) |
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| One of our first views of Kiev as we rode in a taxi from the airport to downtown. |
Of course all my readers are well-versed in geography, but just in case there are some "wanderers" on the web who are not, here is the general location of Ukraine shown in the picture below. It's in eastern Europe. The light green is the current disputed area of Crimea. If you want more of a general overview, Wikipedia can give you a
few more details. And for a little more context, the large country to the north and east of Ukraine is Russia. If we go counter-clockwise from there and list the countries that border Ukraine, you then have Belarus, Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, and Moldova.
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| Your frame of reference. |
The major highlights of the trip, kinda-sorta in chronological order (not necessarily in order of importance) are detailed as follows, in the form of several installments.
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| The view from our hotel room in Kiev. |
- Kiev sightseeing. We didn't see a ton of Kiev - only a day's worth or so. But we saw a few of the must-see places. St. Sophia's cathedral, St. Michael's monastery, and Pecherska Lavra.
St. Sophia's cathedral started to be built in the early 1000's (that's more than 1000 years ago). It has fallen into disrepair and nearly been destroyed several times and is partially rebuilt - we did go into the church to check out the famous old mosaics there. And we paid the fee to go up in the bell tower.
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| The bell tower from the outside. In the lower right, also note the large painted egg. That's a historic Ukrainian craft from what I understand (to make hand-painted eggs). |
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| St. Sophia's Cathedral |
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| The staircase to go up in the bell tower. Yep, we climbed it. |
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| Looking up into the bell tower. Because this kind of picture just makes an engineer's heart sing. |
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| Panoramic view of Kiev from St. Sophia's bell tower. |
We did not enter
St. Michael's. We took a few pictures of the outside and checked out some tire piles, flags, and tents that some protesters left nearby (no active protesting was happening at the time). St. Michael's comes from around the same era as St. Sophia's, but the Russians destroyed it in the 1900's. However, it was rebuilt in the 1990's.
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| The square by St. Sophia's and looking down the road at St. Michael's. |
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| St. Michael's Monastery / Cathedral |
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| Uncle Bex by the protester stuff near St. Michael's. |
And then there is the
Pecherska Lavra, which is another super-old church monastery that was originally in caves. Now they have quite a bit of above-ground stuff too. Charlie took us into one of the churches in the large complex there. We observed part of a service/baptism they appeared to be having because it was a holiday. Interesting and very foreign. And, we took a walk through the caves where some saints' remains are, and people stop to kiss the coffins and do some worship. People carry candles, your head and shoulders must be covered, and the passages are very narrow. Picture a fire marshall's worst nightmare. Charlie said it's even more of a nightmare in the winter when everyone wears their fur coat into the caves while holding their candles.
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| Entrance gate to Pecherska Lavra |
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| With our head gear on and ready to go into the caves. Well, almost. Uncle Bex needed to still get something to cover her shoulders. *gasp* |
And! The Lavra complex contains a museum of tiny things. Everything you look at must be looked at through a microscope. It contained such things as a carved chess set that fit on the head of a pin. And a flea with golden shoes. We also had the opportunity to briefly see the apartment of a native Ukrainian. And we walked along the bluff above the Dnipro (said nee-pro) River. That's probably enough about Kiev for now, huh?
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| More of Kiev including the Motherland statue. |
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| Looking east (I think) toward the part of Kiev on the other side of the Dnipro river. |
More installments coming soon!